A Swazi Night Out.

 

 

 

So, after a cultural day out (see Friday’s posts about an important Swazi festival), I headed down to the Miln on Friday evening for what was meant to be a quiet-ish evening.  So, driving I resigned myself to one glass of wine and then there was talk of going to House on Fire. 

At about 11pm, two taxis picked 7 of us up from the Miln and drove us the 30/40 minutes to the party venue for c. E150 (less than £10).  And I used the term ‘taxi’ lightly – these were local Swazi guys, who were using private cars to drive drunken expats to earn a bit of extra cash!

So, House on Fire …  A fantastical and awe-inspiring performance arena & art gallery with a distinctly new African brand. This fantasy environment is as unexpected as it is moving.  A walk through this enchanting space is a must.  At its core is a sunken “Afro – Shakespearian Globe Theatre” with statues, colourful revelations, soap stone relief and a quirky sense of humour dress.

We attended the ‘Naughty or Nice’ themed Christmas Party, with DJ Fresh.  See: http://www.times.co.sz/entertainment/94465-dj-fresh-packs-over-700-at-house-on-fire.html. 

Although expecting huge numbers of people, House on Fire managed to run dry of Vodka by midnight and Jaeger shortly after. 

We left shortly after 3.30/4am (or, at least I seem to recall we did!) when the place was closing.  No taxis available / in sight, so Thape waved down a passing Mercedes and Combi, which turned out to be driven my his cousins.  They drove use to Happy Valley Casino in eZulwini, which provides a variety of  games including Blackjack, Roulette, Video Poker and an abundance of state of the art slot machines.  The main reason for our visit was for more alcohol, but the bar was closed unless one gambled!  Well, it was one way of using up loose change in one’s purse!

 ImageImage

The pictures in this blog update are of Execution Rock, taken at about 6am.

With its peak at 1110m, Nyonyane is where ancient Bushmen once lived and where Swazi Royal graves are situated giving historical significance. Ancient stories are often told how this magnificent peak acquired its name. Swazis suspected of witchcraft or criminals were forced to walk off the edge at spear-point for their crimes.

Lobamba

 

Lobamba, the spiritual and cultural centre of the Kingdom, is home to the Somhlolo National Stadium, the Houses of Parliament, the National Museum and Archives, and the King Sobhuza II Memorial Park, as well as the royal kraal at Ludzidzini, ringed by the plains on which the nation gathers for the annual Incwala and Umhlanga. This area has been playing host to Swaziland’s royalty for over 200 years.

The King Sobhuza II Memorial Park was established as a tribute to King Sobhuza II who led the Swazi nation to independence (from the British) in 1968. Within the park there is also a small museum which consists of a pictorial exhibition of the life history of the King, as well as three vintage cars once owned by him. The King’s Mausoleum is also within the park – photography of the mausoleum itself is prohibited.

The Museum has an essential role in preserving past traditions and culture for future generations. It’s mission is to collect all natural and man-made objects that reflect both natural and cultural heritage of the Swazi and Southern African peoples. The Natural History Wing was built in 1991, with the objectives of educating the publica about the diverse ecosystems of Swaziland, to illustrate by example how Swazi culture is influenced by nature, and to highlight the importance of environmental issues. The displays include dioramas showing typical highveld and lowveld scenes, as well as one featuring nocturnal animals, which, although they may be common, are often seldom seen.

At Ludzidzini, among the clustered dwellings of the royal village, is the queen mother’s royal kraal, the walls of which are symbolically reinforced with reeds during the annual Umhlanga. In front is a parade ground, with terraced seating for VIPs, where the concluding ceremonies of the Umhlanga take place. During the Umhlanga and Incwala, the surrounding plains swarm with crowds of people in traditional dress, either joining the festivities or commuting back and forth. With the Mdzimba Mountains behind, it makes for a spectacular sight. Parking for spectators is set up in a field to the right of the entrance road.

A rare look inside Swaziland’s mysterious annual kingship ceremony and brewing protest movement.

MBABANE, Swaziland – King Mswati III, one of the world’s last absolute monarchs, is a powerful man – precisely because many think he isn’t a man at all.  

“He believes he is divine, believes he is magic,” his former speechwriter, Musa Ndlangamandla, once said. “And so do his people.”

The paunchy young king, typically sporting a goatee and traditional Swazi garb, has made himself one of the richest royals in the world by controlling an estimated 50 percent of the economy. His Swazi kingdom is a tiny, mountainous region between South Africa and Mozambique, but there’s still big business: it’s home to a Coca-Cola concentrate-manufacturing plant (the company’s biggest on the continent), a new iron-ore reprocessing plant, and one of the largest man-made forests in the world. Over all this lords Mswati III, but for one month a year, he has different business to attend to.

The country shuts down for the month-long witchcraft and kingship ceremony known as Incwala. The annual event is taken very seriously. Shops close, police take off work, and warriors camp outside the king’s palace while he goes into seclusion to perform elaborate rites – eating traditional herbs, dancing – under the supervision of inyangas, or witch doctors. A month later, he emerges from Incwala invincible, cleansed from the past year, and reaffirmed of his divinity. Many Swazis call Incwala “our national prayer month” — the deity being Mswati III.

Some people – including U.S. diplomats and even the king’s former speechwriter – are beginning to suggest that King Mswati’s belief in his own divinity blurs his vision. In a 2010 cable obtained by WikiLeaks, the U.S. embassy in Swaziland, citing a local businessman, described the king as “imbalanced” and heavily influenced by “witchcraft.”

While traditional culture ought to be celebrated, the stakes of Mswati’s mental balance are high. For Swazi women ages 30 to 34, the HIV rate is 54 percent, the highest in the world. Life expectancy fell from 61 years in 2000 to 32 years in 2009.

Belief in his own divinity may allow Mswati to disconnect himself from these realities. In April of 2011, he stirred anger by demanding cows and presents from his impoverished subjects to accompany government funding for his $652,000 40th birthday party (70 percent of the country lives on less than two dollars a day, and yet the royals are wealthy enough to skew World Bank statistics, making it seem a lot less bad.) In May 2012, he flew to England for the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee and let one of his 13 wives spend $60,000 at a South African hotel. Such decadence shouldn’t be significant, but it becomes so when such a tiny and ailing populace must shoulder it. Later that month, the International Monetary Fund pulled an advisory team out of the country because it did not have faith in the government’s commitment to rein in spending (not surprising when the government spends 17 percent of its budget on unnecessary security, funds lavish royal birthday parties, and then asks for loans).

“The rest of the world keeps saying we should have democracy, and we agree,” Vusie Majola, who runs a nonprofit, said. “But what they don’t understand is that the king, he can point a stick at you and you die. We are dealing with someone whose power the world can’t understand.”

Swazis fear the king and fervently believe in his power. Their reverence for Mswati is, to a foreigner, jarring.

“Mswati is not like his father [the revered Sobhuza II, who expelled the British from Swaziland],” he told me. “They all used us, but you only go to Mswati if you want to die. If one healer thinks you are becoming too powerful, he will kill you.” 

The secret ceremonies of Incwala are steeped in mystery. But on Nov. 28, 2011, Pius “unSwazi” Rinto (aka Pius Vilakati), the founder and spokesperson of the banned Swaziland Solidarity Network (SSN), released a document that contained a Swazi man’s alleged confessions about the true nature of the ceremony.

The SSN, which coordinates democracy campaigns from South Africa, claimed that the report came from a former member of the Royal Army who had defected to the democracy movement. The report was picked up by major news organizations, even making it into the New York Times.

It contained a number of well-known facts about Incwala – royal advisors spend the month wandering Swaziland and fining people for violating traditional codes (women wearing pants are commonly apprehended), bulls are killed, young (ideally virgin) boys move onto the palace lawns.

But the document included some strange revelations as well, which are harder to verify.

The author claimed that a snake licks the king all over his body – and quite a bit more. In December, the Johannesburg-based Southern African Report summarized the report as follows:

Among [Incwala’s] highlights is a symbolic demonstration by the king of his power and dominance in a process involving his penetration of a black bull, beaten into semi-conscious immobility to ensure its compliant acceptance of the royal touch. The royal semen is then collected by a courtier and stored, for subsequent inclusion in food to be served at Sibaya – traditional councils – and other national forums.

Afterward, the document claims, Mswati has public sex with two of his wives, ejaculating into a horn like he did after engaging in intercourse with the bull. Then a bucket of water is poured on his head and he washes himself on the women. These wives are the sesulamsiti, which means,  “after I dirty I must clean my hands.”  They are used only for traditions and are not allowed to get pregnant.

Whether this account is true or not is irrelevant. What’s more interesting is the reaction to the account in Swaziland.

The kingdom’s most prevalent religion is Zionism, a precarious balance of Christianity and traditional beliefs. Several Zionist pastors have declared Incwala evil – a lurch too far toward the pagan. The Times of Swaziland, a paper owned by a white Swazi named Paul Loffler who allows the editorial team to function freely, ran weeks of letters to the editor calling for boycotts of Incwala and for parents to bring their sons back from the palace.

Mswati made some attempts to punish the critics, though they were largely futile. The royal newspaper — the Swazi Observer — asked if anyone had information that could help the police arrest those individuals who “distributed pamphlets containing malicious and misleading fabrications aimed at tarnishing the country’s customs and traditions,” citing laws banning defamation of the king. Yet no culprit was caught. One man was arrested for selling G-rated video recordings of last year’s Incwala and asked to get each one back – an impossible task. Journalists and photographers – even Swazi nationals – were banned from all the Incwala events. The only news outlet permitted to cover the last day of the festival was Swazi TV, the king’s propaganda station. In summer 2012, the government announced a new lèse majesté law that will make insulting the king via social media sites a crime. But again, enforcing this law might be difficult.

The account of Incwala published by Pius “unSwazi” Rinto isn’t the only source of anxiety about witchcraft influencing Mswati. In 2011, WikiLeaks released a cable from U.S. Ambassador Earl Irving entitled, “Witchcraft and More: A Portrait of Influences On King Mswati III.” In a kingdom of 1.4 million people, where U.S. embassy officials and Swazi royalty basically all go to one of two real restaurants, comments by U.S. Ambassador Irving made for a very awkward morning after and a public relations nightmare for the embassy.

“What we can say with confidence,” Irving concluded in the cable, “is that shamanism pervades Swazi culture, and even the king, who is above the law and constitution of Swaziland and ostensibly a Christian, is not exempted from its grip.”

The cable quoted Mandla Hlatshwayo, a former Mswati advisor and sugar company CEO, as telling U.S. officials that the king regards any attempts to use muti to attack him seriously. Hlatshwayo, who later founded the People’s United Democratic Movement, the kingdom’s banned opposition party, has gone into self-imposed exile in South Africa.

“They want me dead,” Hlatshwayo titled his Swazi Observer column in October 2011, shortly after the cable was released. Since 2008, he wrote, he’d been hearing rumors that authorities wanted to assassinate him.

Swaziland’s four-decade “state of emergency” – the world’s longest – gives the king absolute power to punish dissent. And yet there is a quiet, watchful protest movement brewing.

The king “can turn into a cat or an ant,” a large, intelligent businessman said quietly. “He can be invisible right next to us right now. I have had friends die this way.”

“Swazis have a secret you cannot beat,” he observed. “They believe in God. But they also believe in the ancestors. The ancestors make the king as powerful as a god.”

“I had a friend, one of us [in the democracy movement], and he entered the royal grounds wanting to discuss the labor movement. Walking out of the palace he looked weak. He died two weeks later.”

“You know what happens,” added a young man in a New York Yankees T-shirt. “The king had his inyangas sprinkle a circle of powder around the palace. You cross that line and you die.”

Come now, Swazis can’t believe King Mswati is really a god.  But “this is why the revolution in Swaziland will be so hard,” he said. “Maybe impossible.”

More about Incwala

Incwala ritual is controlled by national priests known as Bemanti (people of the water), or Belwandle (people of the sea), because they fetch river- and sea-water to strengthen the King.

The leader of these men is a chief of the Mtetwa clan, assisted by other male relatives. Another leader is of the Ndwandwe clan, from the Elwandle royal village.

These men go and fetch water and herbs respectively from the Nations Rivers and the sea.

The other important individuals are tinsila (artificial blood-brothers of the king), and especially the left-hand insila, who shadow the King throughout the performance.

On the other hand, the princes and hereditary chiefs who do not belong to the royal (Dlamini) clan are never in close contact with him.

The princes should, however, be present, but they cannot enter the sanctuary at the crucial moment of the ritual.

Certain chiefs, other than Dlamini, may not attend the Incwala for they are so powerful that their personality might fight that of the King and injure him.  By their exclusion they accept the supremacy of the Dlamini and show their relative independence in their own local ceremonies.

Finally the regiments, the rank and file of the nation play a major part in the public ceremonies and are quartered in barracks in the capital for the duration of the Incwala.  The rank and file of the nation, the majority of the participants, arrive in local contingents led by their chief or his representative.  They come to support kingship.

The duty of organizing the whole ceremony, seeing that it is held on the correct date, preparing the utensils, providing the requisite ingredients, and informing the nation devolves on the governors of the royal villages, and the mobilizing for each scene of the drama is the duty of regimental officials.

Bemanti

In the earliest stage, the Bemanti set out with sacred vessels to the sea, a little south of Maputo, and another group, to the rivers Lusutfu, Komanzi, and Mbuluzi. The departure is a festive occasion. When the Bemanti meet any Swazi on the journey they pillage (kuhlamahlama) the country-side and take any beer they find in the huts.  The fines are very light: a pin, grass bracelet, small coin, or other trifle that has been in contact with the person can be offered.  Any tendency to exact exorbitant fines, such as a new hat or jacket, is discouraged. If a man has no small object with him, he may later bring an exchange for the first offering.  Wherever they go the Bemanti are treated with the utmost respect.  At each home where they sleep a beast is killed and the tail tied round the vessel.  To the Swazi who live in outlying districts, their visit is a sign that the Incwala is close at hand, and chiefs often give money and see that the Bemanti receive large bowls of beer since they are anxious to help ‘support the work of kings’.

Little Incwala

In this event, the Bemanti come to Lobamba, the royal capital. The King and the Bemanti meet in the cattle byre.

Special beer for them to seize has been brewed in the Queen Mother’s enclosure and in the harem (sigodlo), and they carry it out to the leaders.

The regiments present wear semi-Incwala dress, the graceful cloaks of cattle-tails hang from the shoulders to the waist, flowing tails are tied to the right arms, white feathers and magnificent black plumes shine in their hair, their loin coverings are of leopard skin.

The costume resembles war dress, but at the Incwala men may only carry plain sticks (imizacaumzaca singular) instead of spears and clubs (although these are occasionally concealed behind their shields). The restriction on dangerous weapons is to guard against the possibility that fighting might break out, since excitement runs high.

The veterans slowly sing the first of the sacred songs known as the ‘hand song.”

The women come through the upper entrance of the cattle byre to join in the singing and dancing.

The wives of the King stand in order of seniority in the front row opposite the regiments. They flaunt new shawls and newly blackened skirts (tidziya plural). Behind them is the Indlovukazi, the Queen Mother with her retainers and the co-wives of the late King.

The sacred songs of the Little Incwala are followed by a number of solemn songs known as imigubho, which are rich in historical allusions and moral precepts. Imigubho are also sung at other gatherings at the capital or homesteads of chiefs.

The end is marked by the singing of incaba kancofula the national anthem of the Swazi. An interim period follows for about 15 days in different royal residences and imiphakatsi around the country where incwala songs are sang.

Lusekwane

The lusekwane marks the beginning of the big incwala. This is where young men fetch the lusekwane, the sacred tree. The lusekwane is a species of acacia that grows somewhat sparsely in a few areas in Swaziland and near the coast. It grows and is fetched from the same spot (the Egundvwini royal kraal near the Bulunga Mountains) and large quantities are chopped for the ceremony.

Only pure youths may fetch the lusekwane. Indeed the Swazi say the tree was made expressly to distinguish the ‘ impure’ from the ‘pure’; a distinction that is drawn between men “who have spent their strength in children or have intrigued with married women and youths who, though they have had love affairs, have not made any woman pregnant”.

The sacred shrubs are used to build a sacred enclosure for the main event of the kingship.

The lusekwane is cut, at night in the presence of the moon and brought back in the morning to the royal capital.

After the return of the young warriors, they collect umbondvo, the leaves of a shrub that grows near the capital. The sacred enclosure (inhlambelo) is built with the lusekwane and the umbondvo at the bottom.

This day is marked especially by the fighting of the bull called ‘’umdvutjulwa’’. The beast must be caught in the hands of the youths who fetched the sacred tree. Councillors drive it along with the other beasts to make it tractable, through the narrow doorway of the inhlambelo, and all the other animals come out after a few seconds.

The ‘pure’ stand tense, ready to pounce as the umdvutshulwa emerges and pummel it with their strong young hands. To throw the bull with naked hands is a trial of strength and a test of purity.

Big Incwala

Following lusekwane, is the great day where the year-end is marked.

On this day the, King appears in all his splendor, and the ambivalent attitude of love and hate felt by his brothers and by his non-related subjects to him and to each other is dramatized.

Only sacred incwala songs are sang on this day. Two songs are heard at once, the lullaby song of the boys as they drive the incwambo (parts of the umdvutjulwa) into the inhlambelo and a chant of hate from the men and women.

By now he is sufficiently strong to bite (luma) the most powerful of the new seasons crops and after that his people can perform their own ‘ first fruits ‘ ritual.

On this day he is Silo, a nameless creature, a monster of legends.

The following day is a day of kubhacisa. There is a restriction on what people can do on this day, and the King remains secluded in the sacred enclosure. The regiments cannot shake hands, or engage in sexual activities. The King can only see the ritual wives.

The final day of incwala is a day of purification where all material no longer needed is burnt. Among these are remains of the umdvutjulwa, the previous year’s gourd (luselwa), utensils and fines collected by Bemanti during kuhlamahlama.

Warriors and women enter the cattle byre and sing and dance the only the imigubho as all incwala songs are now closed.

As the people dance they ‘ know’ that rain must fall to quench the flames. No matter how heavy the storm, the people do not seek shelter, till, drenched to the bone, they finally round off the performance with the incaba kancofula.

The last day of the Incwala ends with feasting and revelry.

A last service remains to be performed for the rulers – the weeding of the fields.

Early the next morning the warriors collect in the cattle byre, sing ordinary march songs, and leave for the Queen Mother’s biggest maize garden. It usually takes a couple of days to weed them, and then the regiments slowly drift back to their districts. The permanent royal battalion moves over to the King’s gardens and, having cleared them, usually works in the gardens of the queens. Throughout the country the local contingents serve their local chiefs, demonstrating in the order of their service the hierarchy of their society. And everywhere, before the people eat of their food, the conservative headmen collect the members of their homesteads and ritually partake of the crops of the new season; those chiefs who were sufficiently important not to attend the king’s Incwala have a more elaborate rite than the commoners about them.

Incwala

This is Swaziland’s most important cultural event. A ceremony that has lasted for hundreds of years, it is one of the last remaining examples of what was previously common practice in many African countries. It has a spiritual power that is largely lost on outsiders, and indeed many of its inner workings remain shrouded in secrecy. Although often translated as ‘first fruits festival’, the tasting of the first of the season’s bounty is only one part of this long rite. Essentially this is about cleansing and renewal, and – above all – celebrating kingship. Although not a tourism event per se, visitors with an interest in Swaziland culture are always welcomed. Respect for total privacy is required on certain special days when the nation gathers for its own focus, without outside interference.

Every Swazi may take part in the public parts of the Incwala.

The best day to attend is Day Four of the Big Incwala, when the feasting and dancing reach a climax, and you will see thousands of people – including warriors in full battle regalia – thronging the royal parade grounds. The songs, dances and ritual that take place inside the royal kraal remain a matter of utmost secrecy and may not be recorded or written down.

The event takes place around the last week of December / first week of January. The dates for the event are released relatively close to the time as they derive from ancestral astrology.

The full sequence of the Big Incwala is as follows:

Day 1

Dispersing of regiments (Tingaja). Unmarried male youths set off from Engabezweni Royal residence and march 50km to cut branches of the sacred shrub (lusekwane) under the light of the full moon, accompanied by Emabutfo.

Day 2

Dropping the Lusekwane: the boys place their luse4kwane branches in the national cattle byre. The elders weave these branches in between poles of the “inhlambelo”, the King’s private sanctuary.

Day 3

Morning: Young boys cut branches of the black “Imbondvo”
(red bush willow/combretum apiculatum) and these are added to the “Inhlambelo.”
Afternoon: A bull charges out, the Lusekwane boys catch and overpower the beast and return it to the sanctuary.

Day 4

Main Day: All the key players perform in a spectacular pageant inside the cattle byre; the King and the regiments appear in full war-dress and dance to a number of songs. Then he emerges to throw the sacred gourd (Luselwa), which is caught on a black shield by one of the Lusekwane boys.

Day 5

Day of Abstinence: The King sits in seclusion in the “great hut”. The “bemanti” roam the royal capital in daylight hours, enforcing the rules of this day. No sexual contact, bathing, wearing decorations, sitting on chairs/mats, shaking hands, scratching, singing and dancing.

Day 6

Day of the Log: The regiments march to a forest and return with firewood. The elders prepare a great fire in the centre of the cattle byre. On it, certain objects are burnt, signifying the end of the old year, while the key players dance and sing inside the cattle byre. The king remains in seclusion until the next full moon, when the “Lusekwane” branches are removed and burnt.

 

Sibebe: largest exposed granite pluton in the world.

2013-12-15 10.02.50  2013-12-15 11.49.32 HDR 2013-12-15 11.16.59 HDR 2013-12-15 10.47.25 2013-12-15 10.38.38 2013-12-15 10.30.21 2013-12-15 10.25.45 2013-12-15 10.24.45 2013-12-15 10.16.38 2013-12-15 10.06.35 2013-12-15 10.03.09 2013-12-15 10.03.00 2013-12-15 10.02.51 2013-12-15 10.02.49 2013-12-15 10.02.50

Located around 10km outside of Mbabane, Sibebe is the largest exposed granite pluton in the world. Although different in their geology, Sibebe is second only to Ayers Rock in Australia as the largest freestanding rock in the world.

The best view of Sibebe is experienced walking up it! Walks range from the gruelling ‘steepest walk in the world’ (not forgetting the Sibebe Survivor Challenge, www.sibebe.co.sz) to much more gentle, slower ascents.

At some 3 billion years old, Sibebe is more than three times as old as it’s Australian counterpart, but unlike Uluru attracting 500,000 visitors every year, it offers peace and solitude. There is the unique plant and animal like, especially the birds and flowers, many of which are endemic to this region of Swaziland. Sibebe Rock is fast becoming a great destination for bird enthusiasts with species such as the globally threatened Blue Swallow, breeding pairs of which have been observed, and the Ground Woodpecker, among others.

My Type Of Running Club

After attending the Mbabane Running Club only twice since I arrived (as it took me a while to find out about it, acquire trainers and brave the weather), I attended the Christmas Supper last week… And walked away with the top raffle prize: a night for two at Bulembu Lodge.

Bulembu is a historic mining village to the west of Pigg’s Peak and lies at the end of an 18 km scenic drive on a gravel road that takes the visitor near Devil’s Bridge on the slopes of Emlembe, which is the highest mountain in Swaziland at 1850 metres. The village, nestled at the foot of the mountain, is surrounded by the natural beauty of lush green hills and eucalyptus forests. Bulembu Country Lodge has been created from beautifully renovated houses full of character, once home to the managers of what use to be Havelock Mine. Today, they form part of the delightful resort, presenting a charming blend of history and nature, beauty and comfort. Visitors may take the hiking trail that leads to the summit and views that provide more than adequate reward for the effort.

Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary: A ‘Light’ Sunday Hike

Mlilwane; sometimes described as the highlight of the eZulwini Valley*, with its relaxed atmosphere and attractive game-filled plains. The name Mlilwane refers to the “little fire” that sometimes appears when lightning strikes the Mlilwane granite mountains. Its landscape is dominated by the precipitous Nyonyane (Little Bird) peak.

The reserve holds a special place in the history of Swaziland’s wildlife conservation: it was here Ted Reilly** first realised his dream of a sanctuary for the country’s fast disappearing wildlife. Mlilwane’s animals are herbivorous, and include zebra, antelope and warthog. There is also the occasional crocodile or hippopotamus (not that I encountered any)!

IMG_0053

IMG_0052

IMG_0051

*eZulwini Valley – or the Valley of Heaven. In 1960, a succession of casinos, strip joints and hotels sprung up here, catering mainly for South African tourists. When gambling became illegal in South Africa in the mid-1990s, the number of pleasure seekers dropped; the tourist scene had to look beyond the noise of the slot machines and karaoke to the valley’s cultural and natural assets (including Mlilwane). eZulwini is also Swaziland’s royal heartland (as well as a tourist centre) – it has been home to Swaziland’s royal family for most of the country’s history

**Swaziland owes the creation and survival of three of its wildlife sanctuaries to Ted Reilly. As he was going up Swaziland’s wildlife was coming under serious threat from poachers and commercial farmers. In 1959, he lobbied the colonial government to set aside land for wildlife reserves but was defeated by farmers who wanted to use the land for commercial agriculture. Undeterred, he turned Mlilwane estate into a park, and begun cultivating a relationship with King Sobhuza II. After Swazi independence, Sobhuza became more powerful, and Reilly’s relationship with him lent wait to his conservation efforts. Despite rickety finances, Mlilwane opened in 1961 and the restocking and reintroduction of species has continued since then. Meanwhile, Sobhuza asked Reilly to help stamp out poaching at Hlane. Reilly’s tough approach resulted in shootouts with poachers, earning him praise from some and the enmity of many.